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Autumn by Rail in Ticino: Riding the Centovalli Express Through Switzerland's Golden South

tourism2026-08-24 · 2 min read · 0 reads

When the chestnut forests of Ticino turn to gold, the best seat in the house is on a train. I ride the Centovalli Express and the Treno Gottardo through Switzerland’s Italian south, with tips on passes and timing.

There is a particular magic to autumn in Ticino, the Italian speaking south of Switzerland, where the light softens, the chestnut forests turn to gold, and the whole region seems to slow down into something quieter and more beautiful.

The best way to experience this season is not from behind the wheel of a car but from the window of a train, because Ticino is laced with scenic railways that turn a simple journey into the genuine highlight of any trip.

The Centovallina and Its Golden Valleys

The jewel of the region is the Centovalli Express, affectionately known as the Centovallina, a charming little line that runs between Locarno in Switzerland and Domodossola just across the border in northern Italy.

What makes it special in autumn is the scenery, because the train glides hourly through spectacularly colorful forests, crossing deep valleys and old stone bridges while the surrounding slopes blaze in shades of red, orange and gold.

The beauty of this route is that it invites you to slow down, since travelers can hop off along the way to explore charming villages built from traditional stone, wander among sweet chestnut groves and taste the flavors of the season.

The Gotthard Route South

As the line descends toward Italy, the light, the plants and even the architecture change from alpine to Mediterranean.
As the line descends toward Italy, the light, the plants and even the architecture change from alpine to Mediterranean.

For those arriving from the north, the journey itself becomes part of the story thanks to the Treno Gottardo, a panoramic train that departs hourly and connects Ticino directly with Lucerne along the historic Gotthard scenic route.

The most striking moment comes as the train descends through the chestnut forests toward the Italian border, where the vegetation, the quality of the light and even the architecture shift dramatically from the alpine world left behind.

This contrast is exactly what makes Ticino feel like a different country within Switzerland, a place where Swiss precision meets a warmer Mediterranean rhythm, and the train delivers you gently from one world into the other.

Planning the Perfect Autumn Ride

The practical side is reassuringly simple, because the Swiss Travel Pass covers the base fare for most of these scenic trains, leaving travelers to pay only a modest seat reservation surcharge that typically ranges from 13 to 39 Swiss francs.

Timing matters as much as ticketing, and autumn is arguably the ideal season, since the golden colors mix with the first snow on the higher peaks while the summer crowds have thinned, leaving the carriages and villages far more peaceful.

My advice is to resist the urge to rush, because these railways reward those who linger, who step off at a small station on a whim and let a single valley or a plate of local chestnuts turn an ordinary afternoon into a lasting memory.

In the end, autumn in Ticino is less about ticking off famous sights and more about a feeling, the gentle rhythm of a train, the warmth of golden light, and the quiet joy of watching one of Europe's most beautiful corners drift past the window.

Sofia Bernasconi
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Sofia Bernasconi
2026-08-24 · 2 min read · 0 reads
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